Typically, Boost clock bounces around based on load and power budget or voltage. We have already eliminated the thermal checkpoint with our Hybrid modand must now help eliminate the power budget checkpoint. This content piece is relatively agnostic toward nVidia devices. In this case, we care about the in-line shunt resistors for the PCIe cables. By measuring the voltage drop across the shunt, the GPU can figure out how much current is being pulled, and then adjust to match power limitations accordingly.
As we ran these tests, though, we learned that nVidia already does an exceptional job at saving on power budget without significantly killing performance.
This one was easy to identify, as you could see the traces leading between it and the PCIe slot connector. Another note: Adding more liquid metal will be more effective, but you begin greatly increasing risk of 1 LM dripping and shorting other components, thereby killing the card, or 2 LM eating the tin solder around the shunt resistor.
Memory is at XMP1. The launch drivers were used for Titan V. We used our above game bench for most testing. Some tests used our X HWBot competitive bench, detailed here.
With Firestrike Ultra, our first shunt mod attempt had us scoring roughly the same as our normal Hybrid card without the shunt mod. The differences were within variance and error. After consulting Buildzoid and several Der8auer videos on this, we decided to short the third shunt. Again, we got the same results — not shown in this chart — and so then decided to add more liquid metal.
With a medium application of liquid metal — a bit more than we showed in the earlier portion of this video, but not yet a pool of it — we were able to achieve a consistent score uplift of about 0.
Adding more liquid metal helped: We boosted up to points, equating about a 3FPS gain over the non-shorted shunts.
The result is a boost of about 2. We saw less scaling with Firestrike Extreme, expectedly, but will look to our X bench for bigger gains momentarily. Previously, without the shunts shorted, we had issues with Timespy crashing under this overclock, and could not complete the benchmark without reducing clocks or increasing liquid metal on the shunt resistors.
The heavily shorted shunts show a nearly flatlined frequency, which is what you want. This steadiness, similar to what existed during the Boost 2. The clock is holding, rather than bouncing between and MHz. With a And for anyone worried about VRM temperatures, we had that covered.
Not only were the FETs within operating range, they were cooler than on the stock card. Our X bench scores improved a bit, and would help bump us up another place in HWBot scoring, if we were to revisit.
Realistically, though, the gaming uplift is minimal, and nVidia has already done a good job to optimize for power consumption versus performance. Steve started GamersNexus back when it was just a cool name, and now it's grown into an expansive website with an overwhelming amount of features.
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First Prev 2 of 2 Go to page. Joined Feb 18, Messages 2, 0. In every single review it is stated in the cons: "Large increase in power consumption, power efficiency lost". Vayra86 said:. Dude, the card gets 69 C at full load and is more silent than your average case fan. What's the point?!Join us now! Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username?
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EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 XC Gaming Black Friday Deals 2019 (Updated Today)
Essentials Only Full Version. New Member. Little disclaimer before we start. I did all this knowing full well that I would void my warranty and that I could kill my card. I take no responsibility for anyone who replicates what I've done here.
With any mod of this nature, you do this at your own risk. I decided to shunt mod my card since I got annoyed that I didn't know there was two different chips when I purchased my card. The card will hit the power limit even at stock clocks under water. Since it's been a few week since I got my card and there doesn't seem to be a way to flash the BIOS I decided to do a shunt mod.
Also if you are wondering the glue gun doesn't get nearly hot enough to melt solder. I didn't know what the right amount so I just added some until it looked like a little drop of liquid metal.Join us now!
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Recent Photos. View More Photo Galleries. Unread PMs. Essentials Only Full Version. New Member. Heatsinks and fans look the same. Does anyone know why there is such a big price difference between these two?
I did some googling for if it really is or not. From what I have read anything even 1mhz above the factory clock is supposed to be a, so fingers crossed it is. If not I can't see any reason for the price difference. Curious what yours will default boost to.
From everything I have read thats supposed to be thenot the a. Grendel buttabean Curious what yours will default boost to. Without doing anything, it boosts to mhz it's spec states mhz boost.Discussion in ' Alienware 17 and M17x ' started by javersSep 25, Log in or Sign up.
Hi Guys! Been meaning to post this for a while, like others I've have had problems with incurable throttling with the m in M17x R4, Ranger 17 and even worse in the M18x R2 SLI.
Worse on the 18 where you get stuck in the P1 profile. Only concrete solution I've come up with is to short the shunt resistor on the card. This component has a very low resistance a few milliohms and the card measures the voltage drop across it to work out how much current the card is drawing. Do at your own risk, soldering is not for everyone. Its my belief there are different revisions of m pcb out there Ive personally tested two identical looking cards with the same vbios in the same laptop, one will throttle the other will not.
If with M18x R2 you are always in P1 state, this mod will make card run at full clocks but you'll still need a vbios that matches the memory clocks of P0 or manually set via software for full performance.
Oh and lastly thanks to my mate Darren who's not on the forum but was crazy enough to let me near his sli set up with a soldering iron Javers. TheRecieverM18x-oldiePapusan and 1 other person like this. Nice, but really the missing VRMs should be added before using this, the standard M config was already too close to the edge of its stock power draw. M18x-oldie and Papusan like this.
Wow does the M normally get That is almost the same as the M. Papusan and M18x-oldie like this. Yeah only GPU score matters. M18x-oldieOct 2, What driver version are you running? How do you identify which resistors control how much power the card pulls? Is there a specific number next to it or something else that helps me identify it? TemetNosceOct 18, You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads - Shunt Short Hardmod.
Replies: 0 Views: Quillin Apr 3, Share This Page Tweet.We strongly praised Vega 56 at launch for its easily modded nature, but the card has faced fierce competition from the Ti and It was also constantly out of stock or massively overpriced throughout the mining boom, which acted as a death knell for Vega throughout the mining months. This was done with the help of Buildzoid last year. If you want to do this yourself, be advised that long-term damage is a possibility for which we cannot account.
After this, we used a polishing rag and compound to further buff the IHS not shown in the video, because it is exceptionally boring to watchthen we cleaned it and ran the new heatspreader through our standardized thermal benchmark. The Intel IHS is also a non-flat surface — some coldplates are made concave to match the convex curvature of the Intel IHS depending on your perspective of the heat spreader, grantedwhereas the Rockit Cool solution is nearly perfectly flat. Typically, Boost clock bounces around based on load and power budget or voltage.
We have already eliminated the thermal checkpoint with our Hybrid modand must now help eliminate the power budget checkpoint. This content piece is relatively agnostic toward nVidia devices. In this case, we care about the in-line shunt resistors for the PCIe cables. By measuring the voltage drop across the shunt, the GPU can figure out how much current is being pulled, and then adjust to match power limitations accordingly.
The GTX Hybrid series has come to a close.
After speaking to a few AIB partners, we determined that the cooling was still sufficient for our purposes. The GTX Hybrid tear-down went smoothly. We were able to remove all of the components with relative ease, look things over, and make a loose plan for part 2 — the buildwhich also seemed to go smoothly. We were able to re-secure everything and, despite some very close clearance, even got the shroud back onto the card.
Unfortunately, plugging it in revealed high idle temperatures, and a second test led us to nearly 90C almost immediately. We terminated the test and cooled the card down, then re-evaluated the installation.
Read more In 4GB vs. This is reasonable, as media obviously wanted to test both versions of the card, but AMD wanted to limit sampling. We actually liked the way this was handled, given the option between a flashable sample and strictly an 8GB sample. We also ended up hitting 1. The first part of this AMD RX liquid cooling guide tore-down the video card, the second part built it back up with an Arctic Accelero Hybrid III and liquid cooler, and our new video and article explore the results.
The short of it: Liquid cooling an AMD RX significantly improves the temperatures, the noise output, and provides marginal extra overclocking room.
This video is a follow-up to our popular GTX Hybrid seriesif you missed that. Fallout 4 is a solid gamebut like all games, it has its flaws.Join us now! Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username? Haven't received registration validation E-mail? User Control Panel Log out. Forums Posts Latest Posts. View More. Recent Blog Posts. Recent Photos. View More Photo Galleries.
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My first ever Liquid Metal Shunt Mod on my EVGA 2080 TI Black Edition
Re: Power Target, A new bios for ti Black? Anyone got a solution? You'll have to reflash back to the original BIOS. Thanks My multi screen showed me the first DP from the Top was 1 and went from there. If this is just for a single screen, just plug it into the DP closes to the top of the GPU, I don't really think it matters much tbh. Its unverified and appears to be from a Palit Card. The reason that one is working is because the palit card is also a non-a chip.
So then should I not flash this when I get home from work?